Temperature settings vary for different materials, manufacturers, and colors. When using a new material or color, we recommended that you use the TUNE feature to find the right temperature settings.

For guidelines on temperature and material selection, please see our material guide


The shell/wall thickness should be set at multiples of nozzle diameter. For an example, our printer’s default nozzle size is 0.4mm, wall thickness should be set at 0.4mm for 1 shell; 0.8mm for 2 shells; 1.2mm for 3 shells, etc. If it wall thickness is not set at multiples of nozzle size, for an example, if we set at 0.9mm, slicing software will only use 0.8mm, our print will be made with 0.8mm wall thickness, NOT 0.9mm.


For problems relating to quality of prints with small features, try the following:

  1. Lower your print speeds (Yes, even further. Sometimes the finest parts require speeds as low as 10mm/s)
  2. Test the temperature capabilities of your filament by lowering nozzle temperatures until the material will not feed. Try printing with the lowest temperature that will extrude consistently at your chosen print speed.
  3. Turn the fan speed on maximum, or use an additional external fan.

If you are having difficulty with bed adhesion on small parts, try the following:

  1. Increase the nozzle temperature for the first layer by 10 degrees, then lower it 10 degrees after first layer completes.
  2. Try using a brim to increase the contact patch with the print bed.
  3. Use a water-based glue, such as Elmer’s glue stick


Some materials are more suited to large prints than others. PET, PETG, HIPS, and PLA are good materials for printing large scale parts. It is possible to print ABS in larger sizes but it may require a warm, temperature controlled room or some type of enclosure for the printer. It is OK to enclose the printer and maintain ambient temperatures up to 60C. A cabinet, cardboard box, or other custom construction that allows full motion of the print bed may be sufficient, until MAKEiT can release an official enclosure upgrade.

For problems with bed adhesion on large parts, try the followung:

  1. Increase print nozzle temperature 10 degrees, then lower it 10 degrees after the first layer completes.
  2. Increase the bed temperature 5-10 degrees for the first layer, then lower it 5-10 degrees once the first layer has completed.
  3. For taller parts, try lowering the bed temperature another 5 degrees once the print height has reached 2 cm or higher


The first layer is absolutely the most important layer of any print. Errors in the first layer can cause deformities in the print that propagate up into subsequent layers, or cause the print to detach from the bed resulting in complete failure.

In addition to the normal calibration procedure, MAKEiT printers also offer on-the-fly tuning of nozzle distance during your print. This handy feature provides a safety net and quick means of adjustment for getting an absolutely perfect layer. Access NOZZLE DISTANCE from inside the TUNE menu. TUNE menu is accessed by rotating the control dial from the main status screen.


Prints that begin with the nozzle too far from the bed will have gaps between extrusion lines in some or all of the first layer of the print. Filament will not press into the print surface enough to create proper adhesion, and it is very likely the print will come off from the bed and cause a print failure


Proper nozzle distance creates smooth extrusion lines that match up evenly without gaps or significant ridges in between them. The extruding material should compress very slightly between the nozzle and the print surface, a small amount of material squeezing outward is OK.


If the nozzle is too close to the bed it will cause noticeable ridges in between extrusion lines, thin spots, and excess blobs of material that gather on the nozzle or on the print surface. This type of first layer may cause difficulty removing parts and the excess filament is pushed out sideways from the nozzle causing uneven and ugly extrusion lines.