My print is stopping mid-print while using USB
The most common issue when printing via USB is the computer going into “sleep” mode while the printer is running. Printing via USB requires a constant connection between the computer and the printer. To prevent this, disable “sleep mode” and “auto-shutdown” in your computer’s operating system. Alternatively, use the SD card for long prints.
My printer will not connect to Cura or Mattercontrol via USB
Follow the steps in the PRINT section of this guide for USB PRINTING to connect your printer via USB. Sometimes the communication link is missing. Re-set the link by repeating this process and selecting the right COM channel.
My parts are cracking and delaminating between layers
Delamination can be a problem for temperature sensitive materials or the settings are not optimized. Below are a number of corrective actions:
- Increase nozzle temp by 5C increments
- If it’s a large part, increase speed, increase layer height
- Increase wall thickness, increase infill amount, and/or flow rate
- For ABS, print with extruder fan at minimum. If still cracking with ABS, try placing the printer inside an enclosure.
- For large parts, consider switching to a less sensitive material such as PLA or PETG
My parts curling up on the corners on the base of the print
Below are a number of corrective actions:
- Not enough heat on hot bed: increase bed temp using tuning menu while printing is going on, or set a higher bed temp for the next print.
- Reduce the printing speed.
- For models with a small amount of surface area touching the print bed, try using “Brim” or “Raft” to hold down the model
- Under “Initial Line Width” in the Advanced slicing menu, set 110% to 120% so that extra filament will be extruded out to strengthen the stickiness on build plate.
My print doesn’t stay on the build plate
Below are a number of corrective actions:
- The nozzles might be too far from the build plate. Either use the on-the-fly tuning menu to adjust nozzle distance during the first layer of your print, or re-calibrate nozzle distance from the calibration menu.
- Try using settings for either “brim” or “raft” in your slicing software. Brim creates an extended flange of material around the outside of your part to allow more surface area for bed adhesion on small parts. Raft can also create more surface area, but prints a few layers underneath your part which may help for large parts that tend to warp.
- Vary the location where you set your prints on the print plate. This will extend the life of your print plate, as repeated use of the same part of the print plate can wear that portion of the surface faster.
- Apply a thin layer of washable, glue from a glue stick (such as Elmer’s) to the print area. This can be easily cleaned off in the sink with water and normal dish soap
- For difficult materials such as Nylon, use a combination of glue, a brim, and a raft of a different material such as ABS or HIPS.
During printing I hear a rhythmic knock/thump from my printer. What is it and what do I do?
The knocking sound is the extruder motors skipping steps due to excess pressure in the system caused by something preventing the filament from flowing. This sound is does not indicate damage to the printer. It does however indicate there is a problem in the feed system that needs to be corrected. Repeated attempts at extruding through a blockage can grind down or break the filament near the extruder motor. It is best to discard the affected area of filament. After you clear the filament, there are a few scenarios that can cause the blockage which are listed below.
- The nozzles are positioned too close to the build plate, blocking filament flow.
Solution: Select Nozzle Distance from the Tuning menu, turn the dial to increase nozzle height by a small amount until filament flow is visible and smooth. Run nozzle height calibration again before the next print.
- The nozzle is not hot enough to extruder a proper amount of filament
Solution: Go to the tuning menu and select Nozzle Temp, turn the dial to increase extrusion temperature until a proper amount of filament can flow through easily. Do not try to manually extrude filament through a cold nozzle.
- The nozzle is clogged.
Solution: Follow nozzle replacement instructions in section 6.5 of this guide.
- Guiding tube is not positioned correctly inside the extruder module.
Solution: If there is a little gap between the end of guiding tube and the top of nozzle, as indicated by the red arrow in the picture below, incoming filament will fill this gap and cause a blockage inside the extruder module. To solve this problem we can follow these steps:
Step 1: Remove the nozzle; from the SETUP menu select MAINTENANCE, then NOZZLE EXCHANGE. Use the included hex socket driver and follow all safety precautions.
Step 2: Push the guiding tube down further, all the way through the extruder module to remove any melted filament residuals.
Step 3: Pull the guiding tube all the way out of the extruder module.
Step 4: Put nozzle back, again using the hex socket driver and safety precautions.
Step 5: Reinsert the guiding tube back into the extruder module. Make sure it is positioned so that it sits flush against top of the print nozzle.
Step 6: From the Filament menu again, move enough material forward to ensure smooth flow through the nozzle.
Step 7: Re-calibrate nozzle distance.
How do I adjust X and Y offsets for nozzle 2 if two-material prints don’t line up accurately?
It is best not to adjust these settings on the printer itself instead of in your slicing software.
Step 1: Press the control dial to open the SETUP menu. Select MAINTENANCE, then select MOTION.
Step 2: X and Y offset can be set individually.
Step 3: After adjusting settings, return to the MAINTENANCE menu and select SAVE SETTINGS near the bottom. If settings are not saved, they will revert to previous state upon printer restart.
My printer is not extruding filament
If you hear knocking sounds and there is no filament extruding, follow the instructions to diagnose that issue found above. If there is no knocking sound, there are a few likely situations:
- The filament did not travel completely into the head when loaded. Under the SETUP menu and FILAMENT submenu, select the filament extruder you are using and scroll down to MOVE FILAMENT. After the nozzle is hot, manually move the filament forward until you see it extrude from the nozzle.
- If the nozzle height is not calibrated properly, the first layer may be too close to the print bed, preventing the nozzle from extruding.
- Your filament might have a flat spot where it should be contacting the extruder motor. Try advancing the filament with the manual MOVE FILAMENT control while proving slight extra pressure, by hand, onto the filament itself before it enters the extruder. If this does not work, remove the filament and discard damaged section. Repeated issues may indicate poor retraction settings or a clogged nozzle.
One of the Z-Axis nuts came out of the X-bar
If something such as print debris or an improperly placed print plate interferes with the Z-height sensor and send the printer incorrect information during leveling. The printer will make multiple rotations of the threaded rods to attempt to lower the X bar. The hex nut might come out of the original place, like the pictures shown below. Under this abnormal situation, the X-Bar loses proper support from the nuts. To solve this problem we can follow these steps:
Step 1: Switch the printer’s power off
Step 2: Make sure the hot bed and the nozzle clearance cavities are clean of any debris. (These cavities are specifically designed for nozzle clearance while leveling. Any foreign objects on the bed and it’s cavities can prevent accurate calibration)
Step 3: Lift the X-Bar up with one hand, and rotate the hex nut upward along the threaded rod with the other hand. Position the nut such that it is level with the opposite side hex nut, as near as possible from a visual check.
Step 4: Let the X-Bar down gently and ensure the nuts properly seat inside their corresponding cavities. It may be necessary to rotate the nut slightly such that it aligns properly with the hole in the X-Bar end. Refer to the cutaway photo on for how the properly inserted nuts should appear.
Step 5: Manually tap down on either end of the X-Bar to ensure the x-bar is properly seated. If you notice up and down motion, then we need to adjust the nut positions more until the X-Bar sits firmly on both sides.
Step 6: Run the full calibration procedure for X-Axis, Y-Axis, and nozzle distance.